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Thursday, September 10, 2009

Prague #2

X-mas. Hannukah. St. Patty's Day. These are the days that most people need no alarm, no morning newspaper, no coffee machine drip to wake them. They wake, rise, and prepare knowing simply that the day holds amazing things for them, and today became that day for me.
The fucking birds were chirping.
In fact, the birds were chirping so loud that I woke because of them, but the former statement kept me awake. Bones! Chapel! Stuff! I couldn't sit still. Becki noticed, and acted like she didn't, but like Ronald Reagan as governor, the damage was already done. I jumped at the thought of religion and mortality, and threw on my shorts. It was time to jog, hell I was the man himself Clark Kent. I jogged along what could have been a river bank, but frankly, with our hostel in the industrial side of town, the park area wasn't what we would like to call "well-groomed". Not to be picky, just that the bank itself was about 300 yards, and was littered with bumpers and old milk cartons. Oh well, got my point across. I was American and about to be obnoxiously excited.
I returned to find Becki asleep- and Bobby gone. No! My dreams! Melting away like the Wicked Witch! I can't let this go, I need bones! I wake Becki, scared and distraught. What are we gonna do?!? He alone knew the site of the sacred sacrilege! All is lost!
Then Bobby came in.
After the shower it was on like Donkey Kong. Yeah I said it, I hope you get the point. We eat breakfast and hop on the tram to the train station. Upon arrival, we immediately stock up on beer. The trip is about to be an hour, and I need to calm down. Beers abroad, team is ready to go. Becki is getting there, and Bobby is still his calm self. "Heeeeeeeey man" and all that shit. It's not cutting it. My expectations unmet, I resort to drinking. I'm good at it. After a couple beers and some light conversation, Kutna Hora comes up as a stop- we're here. Or there.
A 10 minute walk pits us in front of a small chapel in the center of a walled cemetary. In front of the cemetary is a small spire, and on the directional (NSEW) corners are statues of priests, and their faces are of shame, lies, and apathy. I don't know who hung above them, but regardless, the point was made. The figure in the middle was hung for reasons not condoned by some of the members, yet the Church was most likely responsible. We snap a few photos, move into the cemetary, and continue our documentation of the unknown, or rather, undead.
The chapel entrance is adorned with a small bone decoration: let me be clear, imagine using legos to create, I don't know, a building. Or a ship, an interplantary ship. With large thrusters; point being that much detail is paid to ensure that the replication is almost indistinguishable from the original. Now imagine the legos are bones. I'm not fucking joking.
We step inside, and pay our nominal fee. Charge more, my good man, you deserve it. Along the right side, following the steps down is the author or designer's initials, spelled out in bone. Good start. From there, it was strictly no stops. There was a large chandelier, a coat of arms, and 3 pyramid structures, all perfectly placed, all designed and fitted out of bone. You can't make this shit up- shit I can't make this up. It was creepy, not to mention- imagine- a handout telling the creepiest tale of how it all went down, from a plague to a sacking- still a funny word-, to the creation and continued works in progress that was the chapel. It really just made the whole experience. Throw in some poorly translated Czech words and god dammit, we were all satisfied with ourselves upon exit.
A quick cappuccino and we were on our way to the latter half of our admission, the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary- not only a mouthful, but a beautiful representation of the artists of the time, and also, I have to say it, the wealth of the Church at that time. The ceilings were lifted with Gothic arches to about 20m (ya metric talk!), and the wall were all bright white. There were 2 side corridors, which were separated by support columns, roughly 4m in diameter. The nave was around 12m wide, and along both the corridors and the nave were artifacts that were stored in the church since inception, among them dishes from the King (name?), Statues of the Virgin Mary, St. Peter, and Augustine. The self-guided tour ended behind the nave, on an alcove high above the general seating where the choir would sing. The picture painted was amazing.
After a few good pictures, we decided that with a couple hours to kill, we would grab some of the local fare, and relax in a gazebo that we had noticed on the way it. The restaurant was littered with some of the locals, chatting and laughing as the enjoyed their meals. It was around 75 degrees, and there was a nice breeze flowing through the benches as we sat down. I ordered what Bobby did, sausage with bread. I know, I make it sounds bland, but with the 2 mustard garnish, the horseradish and the tomato salad, everything was above par. Of course, Becki and I were eating sandwiches for practically every meal up until this point. Becki got a chicken breast, and from the look of it, they tenderized it a little before breading it; served with fries this added just enough filling for her and I.
Now to the beer- no where else is beer drank so often, by the young and old, male or female, priest or nun. The reason? The beer is 17-20 koruna. The sprites, cokes and root beer? 35-40 koruna. I'll let you do the math, but it's safe to say only water and beer were had for most of the Prague trip, and for most of the rest of Europe.
The train home is quiet, after walking almost 2 miles (there and back), and our fair share of beer, a nap on the train is in order- Becki and I still have some sight seeing to do.
We part ways from the station, Bobby reminds us of a dinner place he likes to go to, and we agree in principle. I lied when it was just sandwiches- earlier yesterday we had bought some tomatoes, pesto, and mozzarella and were making "ghetto gherita" or "street caprese" as we liked to call it. Quite amazing, I might add.
Becki and I strike downtown, catching glimpses of just about everything old town has to offer, cross Charles Bridge and head to Prague Castle.
The castle was in an area that included the Schwarz Palace, government building, and believe me when I tell you that attacking this would be one hell of a feat. Aside from the 100m elevation difference in ascension, the wall of the castle looked about 2m thick. Stupid. We observe the "changing of the guard", and move inside.
A small town lies within, complete with narrow streets, tapestries, and midget sized doors. Aside from the guards, and assault on Prague might find you face to face with Hobbits. I'm not kidding, the doors were shorter than Becki, check the picture again. It was beautiful, abundant with panoramic views of the entire city, souvenir shops and art pieces. Of note, a large skull consuming a man made of brass. Quite engaging, but we move on.
At this point it becomes clear we cannot see some of the synagogues that made Prague so famous, and in honor of my heritage, and the fact Becki needs more gifts, we elect to stay another night- remember, we're paying $10/person in this place, and there's 1 dollar beers- who wouldn't?
Once home, Bobby reminds us of our engagement, and we head out again, to a restaurant called, "Zlatako Vadlina". Suspicious, but with clear hearts and empty stomachs, we unleash ourselves on the underground restaurant. And it's legit. Rustic paintings adorn the walls, accented with old ship pieces and dusty bottles of American liquor. We check the menu; Becki orders what appears to be a fettuccine Florentine with salmon, and Bobby and I order ribs. For 130 koruna, you can't go wrong with a half-rack of ribs. No half rack here. Believe me when I say this was a whole rack. Being the man that I am, both mannish and cheap, I made to finish every last one. Our bill with 6 beers, 2 Jameson on the rocks, and our meals was 550 koruna. Again do the math, and do it well- it was the single greatest meal I have had; Every. Thank you, bowling alley. Note: there was an actual bowling alley upstairs.
Good night!
Prague day 2


As of now, the link to the slideshow isn't working, so just use the direct link :)
Sam and Becki

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